HistoryThe term wood ear mushroom now refers to a number of species of morphologically similar jelly fungi, with wide distribution, and there is considerable genetic diversity within the Auricularia genus even within species. Wood ear mushrooms were among the most prized edible fungi in traditional Chinese medicine. There are records in China of wood ear mushrooms for culinary and medical use dating back nearly 1700 years, and the earliest cultivation records are from the 8th Century AD.
Despite their current obscurity outside of East Asia, wood ear mushrooms have a long history of use in European folk remedies. Wood ear mushrooms were commonly called Judas Ear mushrooms in the Middle Ages, according to the belief that they represented the incarnation of the spirit of Judas Iscariot, who hung himself from a tree after the execution of Jesus. In Europe, wood ear mushrooms were used to make tonics for congestion and sore throats. Chinese medicine considered soups made with wood ear to be an excellent fever reducer and treatment for consumption. Wood ear mushrooms have long been researched in East Asia, where studies have found anti-tumoral, anti-cancer, and cholesterol-lowering properties as well as improvements to liver function.
The Current Market
I can’t think of any bigger imbalance in the exotic mushroom market than wood ear mushrooms. This is a variety with over six million tons of annual production, consisting of up to 18% of the market for edible mushrooms globally. One sub-species is even endemic to Europe, and yet here is a mushroom variety that is almost utterly unknown outside of East Asia. Virtually no commercial cultivation takes place outside of East Asia, and indeed many Westerners have a strong aversive reaction to both the appearance and texture of this mushroom.
Essentially the only current market for wood ear mushrooms in Western markets is among East Asian, particularly Chinese, diaspora communities. This market is currently filled by inexpensive Chinese exports of dried wood ear mushrooms. Given these conditions, more than any other exotic mushroom varieties, wood ear mushrooms could benefit from having a spotlight shone on their status as a unique functional food even among mushrooms. Wood ear mushrooms will also require some work to demystify them as a food ingredient.
What’s Special about Wood MushroomsWood ear mushrooms are about 66% carbohydrate by dry weight, a quarter of which consists of insoluble fibers. Wood ear mushrooms are remarkably low in calories, and lower in protein than other mushrooms. Per 100-gram serving (raw), wood ear mushrooms have 14 calories compared to 25 calories for shiitake, and just 0.7 grams of protein compared to 3.1 for shiitake. The same serving of wood ear mushrooms has 5.5 grams of fiber_emdash_compared to 4.9 for shiitake and 2 grams for common button mushrooms (all figures from the Japanese Ministry of Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology, or MEXT for short). Wood ear mushrooms also have a much lower ash content than most other mushrooms, and the fruiting bodies are rich in a number of compounds not found in other fungi.
Looking at micronutrients and vitamins, wood ear mushrooms vary so much between different varieties of spawn and are also extremely sensitive to substrate, that I find it difficult to offer an accurate assessment. There are widely variant figures between the nutrition database MEXT publishes, the USDA, and the figures in various research papers I have read on the variety. However, wood ear mushrooms appear to be high in calcium, iron, and magnesium, while being very low in potassium compared to other varieties of edible fungi. Magnesium is a vital mineral generally lacking in modern Western diets and is important for maintaining bone health, cellular health, cardiovascular health, and aiding muscle recovery after exercise. Wood ear mushrooms, especially sun-dried, are rich in vitamin D, and are modest sources of ergosterol and the proposed antioxidant ergothioneine.